On a rainy Wednesday evening we sought relief from the downpour flooding NYC’s streets in Flatiron’s new Mediterranean restaurant, OPTO. The restaurant is tucked away in the subterranean space that used to house the longstanding and beloved Periyali, and it only took one meal to understand that this spot is likely to become the city’s newest hard to get reservation.
OPTO is the latest venture from Executive Chef Alex Tubero (Amali, Ad Hoc, Union Square Cafe) and Co-Owner/Partner Nicola Kotsoni (Il Cantinori, Amali, Bar Room, Bar Six, Periyali). And though Mediterranean fare is nothing new to NYC, this restaurant is already holding its own against its iconic predecessor, and the meal was one that’s continuing to linger on our minds.
OPTO, meaning “to desire” and “to vision” in Latin, offers an elevated and approachable take on Mediterranean cuisine, inspired by Tubero’s profound respect for carefully curated ingredients and unfussy technique. Dinner starts with complimentary house-made durum wheat bread paired with olive oil imported from Spain–delicious–before opening up to a selection of raw dishes and appetizers.
Though Tubero loves to change up the menu, if you see the King Salmon Tartare, order it. Just maybe be more elegant about shoveling it into your mouth via the crispy lavash than we were if you do. The Whipped Sheep’s Milk Ricotta was also a must-order to prime your stomach for the main courses, as were the Charred Leeks and Tiger Shrimp Guazzetto.
Handmade pastas anchor OPTO’s menu, and if we could have scarfed down ten orders of the Pansoti con Salsa di Noci with dandelion greens, sheep’s milk ricotta, and toasted walnuts, we would have. And the Tagliolini al Amalfi Limone, finished with Amalfi lemons and cultured butter imported from France, was delightfully rich but light at the same time.
For entrées, the restaurant showcases a fabulous selection of dishes, both from the sea and land. We were told the Canary Islands Branzino would change our world, and it certainly did. There’s also Roasted Lemon Chicken, served with yellow split pea and herb jus, or Suckling Pig Shoulder, with spring garlic and Tokyo turnips.
And if we can influence you once more, it’s to make sure you save room for dessert–the Lemon Torte Caprese was our favorite, though the Creme Caramel was also delicious. Pair it all with the It’s Better To Know How To Learn cocktail or a glass of white and then seal it all with a digestif like we did and you truly can’t go wrong.
As for the space, guests walking through the doors are immediately greeted by a stunning white marble bar, and the space’s overall neutral color palette is tastefuly without overwhelming you. The design honors Periyali with subtle nods to the original decor, including the softly draped fabric ceiling and silver school of fish artwork.
Kotsoni, who has opened 12 restaurants in New York, found a deep connection with Tubero over their shared love of food and vision for what a neighborhood restaurant could be. Excited to welcome a new chapter into a long-established culinary space, she stated:
Alex is inspiring and the food is going to knock everyone’s socks off. OPTO is about the service, quality, and creating a space where people feel at home.
Reservations can be made here.
📍 35 W 20th Street