Tucked away on Doyers Street, one of the oldest and most historic streets in Manhattan’s Chinatown, lies a teeny tiny wine bar that proves you don’t need much space to make a big impression.
Lei, which opened on June 6, 2025 from restaurateur Annie Shi, is a cozy 700-square-foot, cherry-stained space with seating for just 28 guests. And while a thoughtfully curated wine list is to be expected at any wine bar, Lei takes things to another level: its list stretches more than 25 pages and it houses a staggering 1,000 bottles.
In just over a year, Lei has become one of NYC’s toughest reservations to snag, and beyond being named a 2026 James Beard winner, the tiny Chinatown gem has landed on Bon Appétit’s list of the best new dining spots in America.
A “dream a long time in the making,” Shi told Food & Wine, Lei does something that feels refreshingly out of the ordinary: it pairs wine–from classic producers as well as up-and-coming winemakers–with Chinese dishes, leaving the charcuterie boards at the door.
And judging by the New Yorkers who pack the tiny spot night after night, often just seconds after the doors open, it’s safe to say the unconventional pairing is working.
The wine list spans the familiar–think: classic Burgundy, Champagne, and German whites–to less expected bottles that are a little harder to come by. You’ll find plenty of well-known producers alongside newer names, with the selection stretching beyond France to Italy, Greece, Spain, and China.
There’s even a low-intervention Chinese Cabernet in the mix for those looking to try something truly unexpected.
Shi, who curates the extensive list with wine director Matt Turner, emphasized to Food & Wine that she wanted a way to introduce people “to new wine, and to wine, period.” So while the 25-plus pages of bottles and pours can feel a bit intimidating, the team knows its stuff—and you can confidently leave the wine selection to them.
But focusing solely on the wine without mentioning what you can eat alongside it would be doing Lei a serious disservice.
Small plates inspired by regional Chinese home cooking range from cold plates to heartier dishes. Start with the Chilled celtuce with kombu jelly, shallots, and red vinegar or Jellyfish salad with lily buds, salted coriander seeds, and hot mustard before moving onto Steamed cockles with loofah gourd and Thai basil, Sweet and sour beef short rib, or, arguably the most popular dish, Hand-rolled cat’s ear noodle with lamb braised in cumin and tomato.
And whatever you do, save room for dessert: the Eight treasure rice pudding with sticky toffee or Cherry shaved ice.
Honestly, the only thing harder than deciding what to order is snagging a seat in the first place.
Lei: At a glance
- Where: 15-17 Doyers Street
- When: Open daily, 5 pm – 12 am
- Reservations: Released via Resy 14 days in advance at 9 am | Walk-ins welcomed nightly
See Bon Appétit’s full list of the best new dining spots in America for 2026.